Let's face the facts - there is a lot of bad food out there these days. A lot of restaurant experiences that, though they leave us with a full stomach, also leave a frown on our face as we exit the restaurant. Thankfully, Figs is not one of these places. Rather, it is a restaurant which will satiate your hunger, give you some new and unusual flavor combinations to savor, and, most importantly, allow you to enjoy a good meal and still have enough money left for dessert or a beer.
The nearby Charles Street location of Figs, an upscale chain of pizzerias created by celebrity chef Todd English (who, among other things, hosts a cooking show on PBS), opened its doors in 1995. The restaurant sits in Beacon Hill, one of Boston's oldest and wealthiest neighborhoods and a mere five minute walk from the Charles/MGH T-stop on the Red Line. Red brick buildings line the street, many of which no doubt have been in existence since the early days of Boston, while a myriad of upscale antique shops catering to the wealthy denizens provide interesting eye candy. A short walk leads to Boston Common and its free entertainment and people-watching possibilities, giving you a chance to stretch your legs after the meal.
In the face of these high and mighty surroundings, Figs has carved out a niche as the neighborhood pizzeria, combining gourmet ingredients and culinary know-how with a sophisticated, yet cozy atmosphere. The restaurant seats about 40 patrons at its mostly two-seater black tables, and amidst the few spots where the brick of the surrounding buildings shows on the walls, black and white pictures hang of Italian families producing and enjoying ethic cuisine.
I went to Figs with a group of five on a Friday evening, and though Figs does not take reservations, the managers are more than happy to place your name on a wait list over the phone. We were immediately seated at 7:30 p.m. - impressive considering the size and popularity of the restaurant. A basket with two types of bread and an accompanying cup of olive oil arrived at our table shortly thereafter. Long, tall pieces of a white bread boasting caramelized onions on top tore as easily as cotton, and had a nice gooey texture. This contrasted well with the wheat bread, whose crisp crust and slightly firmer insides left a hint of spice lingering on the taste buds. As we would see, the bread basket's combination of sweet and savory is a staple of Figs' menu.
Appetizer
Items ranged from a basic Mixed Greens Salad with lemon vinaigrette ($5.25), to a Wild Mushroom Ragu with creamy parmesan polenta, a touch of mascarpone cheese and truffle oil ($7.95), to the traditional Italian Antipasto. A friend and I decided to try the special of the day - a Roasted Butternut Squash Soup drizzled with fresh ginger crema ($8.95). The presentation was simple yet elegant. Atop the semi-muted olive color of the soup, the white crema had been arranged in a thin crosshatch pattern, and finished off with a light sprinkle of parsley. Served perfectly warm, its rich, velvety texture coated the throat as it went down. Faint hints of nutmeg added an earthy undertone that complemented the pureed squash, and though the ginger was a fairly pronounced taste, its bite was kept in check by the round flavor of the squash and a touch of honey. I could have done without the few stringy pieces of squash that stuck to the roof of my mouth and teeth, but this aside, the soup on the whole was an enjoyable and filling appetizer.Rating: 2 and 1/2 stars out of 4Entrees In any discussion of the various pizzas offered on the Figs menu, one factor cannot be neglected - shape. Looking more like an ellipsis than the customary circle of "normal" pizzas, Chef Todd English has chosen to dub his creations "free-form" pizzas. In line with this deviation from the norm, he's assembled a menu unlike any other pizzeria around. With pies such as the White Clam, with freshly shucked Cape Cod littleneck clams with oregano, garlic, olive oil, and grated parmesan ($17.95), the Fried Rock Shrimp, with oven-roasted tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and a touch of scallion oil drizzled with an artichoke silk aioli ($17.95), and the slightly more traditional Bianco, with mozzarella, sweet onions, fresh tomatoes, arugula, extra virgin olive oil, and balsamic vinegar ($13.75), it's clear that Chef English has forged his own ideas about what can and can't go on a pizza. For those who can't decide, Figs offers the option to do "1/2 and 1/2 pizza orders," charged according to the higher priced pizza. All pizzas come on Figs' uniquely thin crust, which is both crunchy and soft (try to imagine it). In addition to the various pies, there is also a full pasta menu with items ranging from noodle dishes such as Spaghettini and Pappardelle to a Wild Mushroom Risotto and and Oven Baked Chicken with Rigatoni.
On this occasion, I sampled four of the 13 different "free-form" creations. The first taster was the Fig & Prosciutto, with a crisp rosemary crust, fig and balsamic jam, prosciutto and gorgonzola cheese. Take note - this is a very sweet pizza, with whole figs atop a combination of two other sweet ingredients, a mixture of mashed figs and balsamic vinegar. To cut through the potentially disastrous sugar rush, tangy gorgonzola cheese is subtly added, and a thin layer of salty prosciutto is placed on the pie after cooking. For those interested in expanding their taste buds and conception of pizza, this is a viable option, and one which I enjoyed. Although it is in some senses an assault on the taste buds with such disparate ends of the flavor spectrum in each bite, it is quite good.
On the other hand, a second pizza, the Crispy Prosciutto, with gorgonzola cheese, pumpkin puree and caramelized onions didn't fare as well. Merely thinking of the flavors and textures in my mind, it seemed that in this pizza the chef was attempting to fuse ingredients that should have been kept apart. I was right. The sweetness of the pumpkin was no match for the salty prosciutto, the pungency of which was simply reinforced by the gorgonzola. The sweetness of the onions had probably been used to balance the salty and pungent flavors, but in both texture and taste, it just didn't fit in. My advice to you regarding this pizza: look, but don't taste.
To contrast with these more "radical" pizzas, I tried one of the specials of the day - the Fresh Asparagus pizza with roma tomatoes, feta cheese, caramelized onions, and saut?©ed zucchini. In a sense, this was a departure from the sweet/savory combinations of the Fig and Prosciutto and the Pumpkin and Prosciutto. Though the caramelized onions hinted at the same theme, this pizza was much more in the mainstream in terms of its ingredients. Some of the tomatoes were perhaps a bit too soft, but their juiciness and texture nonetheless worked with the slightly stiffer feta (of which I could have used a bit more). The asparagus had been cooked nicely as had the zucchini, but as I ate each bite I wondered, were the onions really necessary? Or was this just Figs attempt to keep the same idea going in every pizza? Additionally, the flavors sometimes blended into each other a little too much, leaving a sort of muddled impression on my tastebuds.
To see what else Chef English could do with asparagus, the last pizza I sampled was the Fresh Asparagus with imported fontina cheese, marinated mushrooms, roasted red onions, and a drizzle of roasted tomato aioli. The asparagus was well cooked once again, and sat on what nearly amounted to a bed of wet mushrooms, which had been marinated in - surprise - something sweet. As with the first asparagus pie, the cheese seemed somewhat auxiliary to the other ingredients, and once again the sweet factor was at work with the onions. The aioli was good if not a bit bland, though in combination with the mushrooms it made for a slightly wet pizza.
Rating: 2 1/2 stars out of 4
Overall, my experience at Figs was a good one. Three giant pizzas, one soup, and a glass of wine later, the bill came to about $15 per person. Though it might not be as cheap as Espresso's, give Figs a shot the next time you're going out. But be warned: Service can vary from the good to not-so-good, and it would be wise to consider balancing sweet and more savory pizzas, so as not to leave feeling like you've eaten dessert. That being said, in an age where bad food abounds, you'll likely enjoy some good eats with reasonable prices at this neighborhood pizzeria.
