The runways have been cleared, and it is officially a wrap on Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Countless designers from across the globe flocked to Paris to showcase their contributions and collections for the Fall/Winter 2024-25 season and the looks did not disappoint. While some fashion shows opt for extravagance and feature pieces you would likely never see worn regularly, one of the highlights of Men’s Fashion Week was designers presenting extremely wearable pieces.
American Prep and the University Aesthetic with Rhude and Wales Bonner
The Rhude and Wales Bonner collections are heavily influenced by the American prep style and ‘university aesthetic.’ Sweaters, sweatshirts, baggy pants and the occasional blazer seemed to dominate the runway when it came to these two designers. The looks feel elevated and on par with luxury fashion, yet they maintain a certain simplicity and relatability.
The collegiate tributes in the collections were both subtle and direct. One of Grace Wales Bonner’s best looks was a simple red and cream sweatshirt with “Howard Crew” across the front in varsity letters, paired with baggy blue pants and leopard print shoes. Bonner spent time researching at Howard University and paid homage to the university in multiple pieces. Similarly, a Rhude look featured an Oxford University sweatshirt under a plaid blazer with (again) baggy jeans. The Rhude look was reminiscent of some of Princess Diana’s iconic streetwear outfits.
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson and Loewe
Jonathan Anderson has quickly become one of the most recognizable names in modern luxury fashion. Anderson has garnered much attention for his creative and oftentimes quirky designs. When it comes to Anderson, much credit has to go to his ability to design for both JW Anderson and Loewe, while retaining the uniqueness of their individual brands. Paris Men’s Fashion Week showcased Anderson’s designs for Loewe.
While Anderson did stick with the trend of baggy clothing with some of his looks, he also did not shy away from showing some skin. Some models were seen walking solely in underwear under a pair of tights at the Milan JW Anderson show, and at both shows other shirtless males bared their chest under a jacket or cardigan. When looking at both collections, there is a certain whimsical vibe to them, likely due to the endless variety of colors Anderson incorporated into his looks — it seems like he used every color of the rainbow imaginable.
Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton
Pharrell Williams’ collection for Louis Vuitton was both a hit and a miss. The collection was heavily influenced by Western wear and workwear — think cowboys.
Trench coats and blazers embroidered with Western iconography like cacti, bulls, flowers and more were some of the most appealing pieces in the collection. They felt like the perfect blend between luxury fashion and something a cowboy might actually wear — if they were a very extravagant and fancy cowboy, that is. Denim was another highlight of the collection, with a full denim look featuring the iconic Louis Vuitton Damier and intricately embroidered baggy jeans. Where the collection falls short is the overuse of the Damier, specifically when the Damier is shown in vibrant colors. The color-blocked Damier seems to lose the essence of Louis Vuitton and instead comes out looking like Minecraft blocks.
Overall, there are some clear trends coming out of Men’s Fashion Week this season. Wearability seems to be a highlight of many collections and there is an emphasis on looks that feel luxurious while also being functional. Jackets and blazers also dominated the runway, whether that be a funky leather jacket, an oversized blazer or a classic varsity-style jacket.
Out of the designers featured in this article, Grace Wales Bonner and Jonathan Anderson (specifically for Loewe) might be the standout stars from this season. Bonner perfectly captured the style of American prep and created looks that feel authentic to what someone might actually wear on a college campus or simply walking the street. Anderson’s looks felt a bit more extravagant and perhaps not a look you would see on a day-to-day basis, but much of that has to do with the intentional styling of the pieces. Individual pieces from Loewe are similar to Bonner’s, while their styling makes them more weird and unexpected. But that seems to be Anderson’s forte; he enjoys a more quirky look.
It is safe to say Paris Men’s Fashion Week was a success this year, delivering memorable looks that are easy to imagine being sported by celebrities on their trips to Erewhon or trotting around New York City. We will just have to wait and see which looks successfully translate from the runway and into the lives of consumers.