The Gourmet Corner
March 31It seems so often these days that when we Jumbos decide to go out for a nice meal, we inevitably head for Boston. And why shouldn't we? A city that boasts one of the most vibrant restaurant scenes in the country, the myriad choices naturally draw us in. But did you know that in the midst of our very own Davis Square there is a gourmet restaurant? You've probably waked by Gargoyles on the Square - or Gargoyles, for short- many a time. Nestled between the Picante Mexican Grill and Downtown Wine Spirits, Gargoyles opened in 1995 with Chef Neal Palmer at the helm. Separated into bar and restaurant sections, and featuring live jazz every Sunday, Gargoyles has received more than a few favorable reviews; excerpts from Gourmet, Sunset, and other magazines grace its walls. This past Sunday, I hopped on the Davis Square shuttle to see what this restaurant was all about. In front of the dining room, amidst mauve walls, ruby velour curtains, and a bronze tessellated ceiling, one finds the bar. Sitting on high back chairs, the mostly thirty-somethings clad in everything from Bermuda shorts and T-shirts to formal all black get-ups sip their copper-red margaritas and chat with the bartender at leisure. My waitress was more than willing to discuss the menu. Although rather small, it boasts creations such as Grilled Rabbit Salad with frisee, Granny Smith apples, house made pretzel croutons, dijon cream and a sherry vinaigrette, as well as Escargot in Artichoke Heart, with a crisp filo wrap, and a garlic and parsley butter burgundy sauce. After some deliberation, I settled on the Spring Pea Soup with scallops, bacon, chives, creme fraiche, and pansy - yes, the flower ($6.95). Sampling the bread basket, I found a raisin scone livened with cayenne pepper, as well as some spicy herb bread punctuated with a slightly tart fruit. Both of them benefited from the freshly whipped butter with which they were served, helping to mellow the somewhat overpowering tastes. After a good ten minutes or so my soup arrived. Peas, half-submerged in a slightly lighter green broth, encircled the white creme fraiche, in the middle of which rested two sea scallops topped with a white and purple pansy. As a finishing touch, the soup was sprinkled with chives. The soup was a work of art not only in the visual sense, but more importantly in taste. A melange of textures greeted my mouth, the most surprising of which were the peas themselves; they had been lightly blanched in water, crunchy on the outside and firm on the inside. A puree of peas and some sort of stock made up the rich and delicious broth, which was contrasted by the sweet creme fraiche and both sweetened and slightly spiced by the chives. The nicest part of the soup? The scallops that, warm and soft, accentuated the slight bacon flavor of the broth, and had been cooked with the tiniest hint of lemon. With its contrasting textures and flavors, the Spring Pea Soup was truly a masterful creation. The appetizer was a success. After pondering the menu, from ornate dishes such as Cornish Game Hen with a spicy Italian sausage and polenta stuffing, little neck clam, tomato and green olive stew ($17), Grilled Pork Chop with apple and almond stuffing, cinnamon basmati rice, green kale, and a blood orange pomegranate sauce ($17.75), I opted to see what Chef Palmer could do with the basics; I ordered the Gargoyles surf-and-turf ($21), described as grilled petit filet and swordfish, with braised red onion, potato cake, and anchovy butter. The presentation of this dish was more simplistic than that of the soup - the four elements were arranged in a sort of plus sign, with a jus-doused sprig of mint occupying the center. The onion was done nicely, having been cut through the center and lightly grilled, so as to char the outer edges of the petals. Juices flowed from the petite filet, and the green-speckled anchovy butter lay atop the small swordfish, while the potato cake had been grilled, and looked reminiscent of a hockey puck-sized potato latke. My first bite of steak was one of utter disappointment. Not only did the taste of char strike me first, but the meat itself was not of restaurant quality and was slightly more cooked than my normal expectations for medium-rare. My next taste was of the swordfish, which was so hot that I barely escaped burning my tongue. After such a delectable soup, this was not at all what I expected. Once the morsel had cooled down some and I was able to taste it in combination with the anchovy butter, I found that the two flavors did little to compliment each other, and the dish was unable to take off. The temperature of the swordfish was hot to the point that as I sat eating my meal, the filet gradually became more and more dry, still cooking from the heat. Unfortunately, after cutting into the crisp outside of the potato cake to reveal a soft mashed inside, I put it in my mouth only to find once again an exceedingly hot temperature. Now don't get me wrong - I appreciate a hot meal, but not one that threatens to scorch my tongue and prevent me from tasting the food. Fortunately, the onion was quite pleasant. It had been braised in port, and cooked so that the petals were softened but not mushy. But though I enjoyed the accompaniment of the steak and swordfish, it could not make up for the meats themselves. I asked myself again, what is going on here? After reading over other reviewers' accounts of their experiences at Gargoyles, it seemed that everyone pretty much said the same thing: Chef Neal Palmer likes to play with ingredients, and often comes up with dishes that are a feast for the palate. Based on the strength of the soup I tasted, this seemed completely true. What I decided in the end was that, though the entree was poor, it was not reflective of the quality that Gargoyles has to offer. Surf-and-Turf is not an inherently exciting meal in and of itself, and after sampling such an exciting and original soup, my guess is that this blandness was simply further emphasized. I'd recommend Gargoyles as a viable choice the next time you're looking for a gourmet experience. Not only will you be able to get some savory cuisine, but you'll avoid the hassle that goes along with a trip into Boston. Furthermore, if you're not partial to spending quite so much on dinner, I've been told that the bar menu is just as good. With choices such as Ducktrap River Smoked Salmon with deviled egg and caper berries ($5.50) and the famous Gargoyles 1/2 pound Cheeseburger with Vermont cheddar, Swiss, or Great Hill Blue cottage cheese, fries, and zucchini pickles ($7.25), at a third of the price of an entree, a good meal is only a shuttle ride away.@thumbnail:Gargoyles on the Square, 219 Elm Street, 2 and 1/2 stars.@boxhead:What does that mean, anyway?@bodytext:Frisee: a feathery vegetable with slender curly leaves and a mildly bitter flavor.Creme fraiche:a matured, thickened cream with a slightly nutty tangy, nutty flavor, and velvety rich texture.Blood orange:a sweet tart orange with a bright red flesh.Port:a sweet, fortified wine.Blanch:to plunge food briefly into boiling water, and then into cold water to stop the cooking process.Braise:to brown in fat and then cook tightly covered with a small amount of liquid for a lengthy time.
