Beacon Hill keeps getting better and better. A few blocks past The Paramount and Figs lies a hidden surprise - modern, French fusion cuisine. Elegantly modest, the only clue that a restaurant hides nestled among the storefronts - Newbury-esque style - is its royal blue oval sign engraved with gold. "Torch."
Upon entering a simple foyer, we were warmly welcomed by one of the restaurant's proprietors, Evan Deluty. Passing through a hexagonal archway, Deluty led us to a small, main dining room. What struck us was the interior decoration - linear, modern, and minimalist. White, cylindrical candles alternating with bottles of red wine top a single shelf that continued around the entire room. Long, horizontal mirrors line the rich, maroon walls while copper plates complete the lower half. The flickering candles, reflected by the copper wall, create an illusion of being surrounded by fire in the dimly lit room. The intensity of the window drapes - in red, yellow, and blue - accentuate the restaurant's simple and classic decor. The waiters' crisp, black shirts complemented the modern atmosphere of the restaurant.
Unlike having a breadbasket on the table, the "breadman" doled out identical slices of French peasant bread from his large, wooden basket, as he floated between the candlelit tables. A small dish of extra-virgin olive oil, spiked with red pepper flakes and sea salt, accompanied the fresh bread. Although there were no specials, Torch's menu reflected autumnal produce and hearty game, as seen in some of the dishes such as "Chestnut Soup with Bacon and Chive" ($9) and "Long Island Duck Breast with Garlic Spinach, Pomme Rosti, and Aged Sherry Reduction" ($24).
Even if you are adverse to raw fish, the restaurant's signature appetizer, "Salmon Tartar with Japanese Rice, Wasabi, and Soy Reduction," ($10) will cause you to reconsider. The three people that decided to share this dish were utterly dismayed to discover that only two tablespoons of delicate, finely chopped salmon rested above warm, almost creamy, sticky rice. A circle of wasabi and soy sauce reduction was swirled around its perimeter.
Another delicious seafood-inspired dish was the "Roasted Halibut with Exotic Mushrooms, Fingerling Potato, and Cepe Vinaigrette" ($26). This entree featured a substantial Halibut fillet, lightly browned and flaky, lying on a bed of "exotic" mushrooms. For those who don't like fungi, be reassured that these were succulent, and immersed in a sauce, slightly tinted with vinaigrette. The fingerling potatoes provided a nice complement to the meaty mushrooms. The slices of zucchini were overcooked.
The "Roasted Half Chicken with Pearl Onions, Garlic Mash, and Chicken Jus" ($19), however, was perfectly cooked. Its tender, moist meat and crisp skin was lightly flavored and suspended above an island of garlicky and buttery mashed potatoes. Huge pearl onions were scattered throughout. Do not let this dish's seemingly ordinary content fool you - it's incredible.
Along the same lines, while the "Sardinian Couscous with Ginger, Carrot, and Garlic" ($17) appeared innocuous, its bright and colorful appearance matched its lively taste. This slightly salty dish was a perfect example of "modern French fusion" due to its distinct Asian influence, as seen in the use of ginger. The yellow couscous resembled mini disk-shaped pasta as opposed to the traditional North African couscous. Flaked by carrots, scallions, and asparagus tips, it was definitely easy to finish.
The restaurant's signature entree, "Hanger Steak with Potato Puree and Truffle Vinaigrette" ($26), was characteristically French. Cooked medium and bathed in a heavy, brown and salty sauce, the meat was succulent, juicy and served atop a fluffy pillow of creamed potatoes. This dish was a polar opposite to the couscous - richly brown and lacking in any colorful accompaniments.
Dessert? Bien sur! We managed to joyously snag the last dessert special of the night - "Pecan Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream" ($7). An individual tart arrived, its light and flaky crust surrounding whole pecans and a sweetened filling. A small dollop of creamy, vanilla ice cream, with the distinct taste of vanilla bean, tasted homemade. Its refreshing coolness perfectly balanced the warmth of the tart.
That same delicate, fluted crust appeared in both the "Chocolate Mousse Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream" ($7) and the "Mixed Berry Tart with Bourbon Vanilla Bean" ($7). The chocolate mousse was light and fluffy with just the right amount of chocolate. It was the equivalent to the hanger steak entree in that both were delicious, but not very memorable nor original. The Mixed Berry Tart, however, was both aesthetically unique and delectable. Blueberries and strawberries were nestled in a pale yellow, vanilla-flavored custard. A moat of strawberry juice completed this dessert.
Torch offers an extensive array of champagnes, white wines, and red wines. Our waiter's suggestion of the 1989 Chateau Simard Saint-Emilion ($58) paired perfectly with the meal. This fruity Merlot subtly enhanced the delicate spices and flavors of the various dishes.
Torch is ideal for a special occasion - birthdays, graduation, dates, and parent-milking sessions. Remember to dress chic, and gentlemen, - don't forget to wear a jacket. Prepare yourselves for a warm, exceptional night at Torch in wintry Boston.
