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The Tufts Daily
Where you read it first | Monday, May 20, 2024

The Paramount is tantamount to greatness

If we had our first choice, we would not have eaten at The Paramount. After arriving at Figs and hearing that the wait would be an hour and a half, we resignedly asked the hostess for names of neighboring restaurants. "The Paramount, Torch, and Tosconani," she said.

Tearing ourselves away from the promising smells of Figs, we walked into the freezing cold and searched for an alternative - The Paramount. Conveniently located next door, we glanced at the menu and, upon entering, were met by a cozy atmosphere that convinced us to stay. And we didn't even have to wait for a table!

Walking past the candlelit tables, we were delighted to find that our table was next to the open kitchen (or were we?). Our previous motto had always been "don't look, don't look, or else you won't eat it!" However, we were fascinated watching the cooks prepare fresh salads with grilled apples and cut quesadillas into four equal triangles. Jamie and I were particularly interested in the bursts of flame that repeatedly exploded from under the wok.

We were able to tear our eyes away from the stove long enough to notice the paintings and family pictures that added to the intimate atmosphere. Aside from the fact that the restaurant was already dim due to its rich brick walls, dark tables, and floor, the lights continued to fade, adding to the leisurely feel of a flickering, candlelit dinner.

Comfortably crowded, the small restaurant was full of couples and friends. "This is pretty much a neighborhood restaurant," the owner Mike Bissanti told us. "Most of the people here are regulars. I love seeing familiar faces as I walk throughout the restaurant. They know us and we know them." Doesn't this sound perfectly anti-Cheesecake Factory?

Then he drops the bomb. Get the hell out of here, you strangers! Ok, not quite. "We welcome non-locals, but we prefer to remain dedicated to our current customers. We have a certain clientele and we don't want them to walk in and become upset by seeing throngs of people from Downtown, the Back Bay, and Newton." (Newton?) What did we look like? Hooligans?

Aside from the fact that we weren't Beacon Hill natives, we were still welcomed by the friendly, young, and attractive wait staff - attentive to all of our needs. While we were perusing the menus, which boasted a variety of pastas, stir-fry dishes, sandwiches, and salads, we were brought a plate of herbed focaccia with a side of - tuna fish? Bleah. But it turned out to be a tasty garlic humus spread.

When inquiring about our choice of appetizers, we decided to rely on our waitress' suggestion of "vegetable quesadillas - my favorite." Arriving hot and gooey, the lightly browned and crunchy crusts were filled with green peppers, zucchini, yellow squash, mushrooms, onions, and Monterey jack cheese. The peppery, chunky tomato salsa, and sour cream completed this delicious dish.

Sadly, the grilled chicken with sun-dried tomato aioli sandwich on French bread ($6.25) was just a plain chicken sandwich - there was not even a hint of sun-dried tomatoes! But the linguini with grilled chicken and broccoli, plum tomato, cream and garlic ($11.25) was a sophisticated, lightly creamy, pasta primavera. With a colorful blend of chunky vegetables and moist, tender slices of chicken, it greatly surpassed the sandwich.

The spinach and ricotta ravioli with a plum tomato cream sauce ($9.50) was the best. This was no Rag??: with its big chunks of tomatoes swimming in pink garlicky sauce - highlighted by tiny strips of spinach - this intense sauce could have been complete with just a basket of bread. Nevertheless, the seven large, fluffy ravioli, plump with a cheesy spinach blend, were heartily enjoyed.

As avid fans of dessert, we were disappointed to discover that the Paramount offered only one daily dessert. That Sunday night featured creme caramel. No chocolate.

End of dinner, but not the night. After paying the check, we relaxed and enjoyed the warmth emanating from the open kitchen.

Although we would love to disregard the owner's understandable request that his restaurant remain a neighborhood gem, we thoroughly encourage you to round up all the hooligans from "Newton" and crash the Paramount.