Pint dreams in Boston's North Station

It's rare to hear students say, "Oh! I think I'm going to go to North Station to drink tonight. I hear it's a happening place." Though often forgotten by students and tourists, the area around the FleetCenter is abuzz with activity. And beer.

Two bars manage to make our "not gross enough to get freaked by strangers and not nice enough to blow our budgets" list: The Fours on Canal Street and Porters Bar and Grill on Portland St. Neither have cover charges (unlike Senior Pub Night) and both provide better drinks in a non-dining hall atmosphere.

In celebration of the addition of the word "bling-bling" to the Oxford English Dictionary Shorter Version, we decided to dine out. Our evening extravaganza began at Porters Bar and Grill, which as the name might imply, is a bar with a grill, but it is not in Porter Square. And there is no connection between the establishment and jazz musician Cole Porter.

Porters is unimpressive when you first enter. With the usual neon signs on the windows and high-backed booths inside, the bar emits an aura of Anybar, USA. But once you sit down and observe the venue, you realize that it has its own charm.

There are a lot of little things that give Porters character. It has a nicely designed bar with candles nestled between the bottles. The place is surprisingly clean and doesn't have the touristy feeling of the Faneuil Hall bars. And though the furnishings are nice, Porters had a laid-back feel, and it seemed as though most patrons were there to hang out and watch the Celtics Game, not take Jell-O shots and play the dating game.

Porters offers three unusual beers: their own porter, Boddington's on draft _ surprising because it has to be imported _ and Duff Beer. Yup, that's right. Now you too can be Homer Simpson. Porters renamed a beer from a Vermont brewing company that is similar in taste and body to Miller Genuine Draft after the popular Simpsons' drink.

The menu is refreshingly devoid of nachos and anything containing the word "poppers." With a selection of interesting sandwiches, like the Newporter, which consists of smoked turkey breast, melted brie, and pesto on a toasted baguette, as well as a small selection of more upmarket entrees, Porters' menu is one step up from greasy friedness.

We interrupt this program to bring you a message for the restaurant reviewers: we've been to Orleans, and we disagree with your assessment that "you cannot go wrong at Orleans." In fact, we believe that going there is wrong. No means no, guys, and so do draped fabrics and fish nets. Here's a message you may not have heard: thank you for your cooperation, and thank you for riding the T.

But back to North Station, which in fact is the name of a T station. If the live music that comes on at Porters late in the evenings is a little too loud for your taste, head over to The Fours Restaurant and Bar. It is a sports fan's delight, with enough memorabilia on the walls to make [censored]. We were surprised that Ted Williams' cryogenic chamber was not standing in some corner.

The d?©cor at The Fours is cheap classy, or as we called it after a few beers, cheassy. Try that on for size, Oxford English Dictionary Short Version! The bar had the same laid-back atmosphere as Porters and was frequented by local "professionals," meaning people in their mid-20s with mediocre jobs who never learned the consonant "r." One thing they did learn, however, was Boston sports.

The Foahs has two floohs: a downstairs bah and dining area and an upstaihs bah and function room. The beer selection is modest, but hey, Boston sports fans need only one amber nectar. Though the menu was extensive, the entrees were a bit pricey. And with bright lighting, The Fours felt more like IHOP than a bar.

While these two establishments were cozy and comfortable, it was clear that the lushes were not among their own age group. Those who prefer to wear less clothing and more body glitter were next door to The Fours at Hurricane O'Reilly's, which looked no different than its touristy, college-studenty, boobalicious sisters in Faneuil Hall. But if something a little less strobe-lit is what you're for, North Station is worth exploring. The bars here have a more real, honest feel, and there is a wide range of prices and specialties _ far more than we could explore in one evening.

Plus there's a Hooters (Lush review pending).