In the wake of events that followed Sept. 11, patrons of Helmand Restaurant in Cambridge have come from far and wide to sample the tastes of Afghan cuisine. The immense increase in information and accounts about Afghanistan's culture and society since the fall of the Taliban has piqued people's interest, putting this restaurant on the map and giving it a beneficial clientele boom.
Though the media attention has waned, the restaurant continues to serve to its maximum capacity and seats those seeking to be adventurous with their dinner experiences. Words that come to mind within the context of Helmand are serenity, simplicity, and warmth.
The restaurant's walls are painted in warm pastel colors, ranging in hue from yellows to vibrant oranges, while a fireplace and the glow of a wood-fueled oven provide those who enter the restaurant refuge from the blistery cold. Mirroring this color scheme is Helmand's selection of foods - a vivid array of pungent curries, spices, and savory meats, consisting primarily of beef, lamb, and poultry.
But vegetarians shouldn't feel left out, the restaurant's appetizers include a selection that will have your meat-abstaining friend's mouth watering in no time. Banjan Borawni ($3.95) consists of pan-fried eggplant that is seasoned with spices, baked with fresh tomatoes and green bell peppers, and then finally topped with yogurt garlic mint sauce. While you might have never imagined foods such as yogurt, garlic, and mint within one sauce, they are all a pleasant delight to behold in this combination -- and are, quite honestly, the secret to this palette pleasing delicacy.
Entrees include a variety of dishes primarily served with rice. The rice itself should be noted as being a delicately prepared finery that is showcased on its own. Mourgh Challow ($9.95) or chicken sauteed with spices and yellow split-peas, then cooked with yogurt, cilantro and curry and served with challow, is among the menu's highlights.
Also worth mentioning is Helmand's service. Employees provide instant service and are often so quick at doing so that one can't help but feel rushed. Plates and glass are whisked away in what feels like minutes, and moments later, dessert makes its appearance.
While the restaurant is extremely busy and the staff is anxious to turn over tables, the waiter and host are still kind and quick to give their own input on the evening's specials, as well as adding a note on the wine served. However, at one point our dinner session was curtailed as an eager customer asked us if we would be ready within the next few minutes - clearly the impatience of those serving our meal was driven primarily by mounting customer demand.
The personal attention should be commended as the restaurant's high note, but be prepared for the occasional impatient grimace. Don't, however, let this dissuade you; Helmand is well worth the wait. Unlocking the savory mysteries of Afghanstan's native cuisine is an epicurean delight, guaranteed.
Helmand Restaurant is located at 143 1st Street in Cambridge, MA. Call 617-492-4646 for more information.
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