Away from the hustle and bustle of Hanover Street in the North End hides Terramia Ristorante. Behind its modest wooden doors, Terramia creates a seductive atmosphere and superb dishes. Upon entering the restaurant you discover why Terramia has been awarded "one of the outstanding reasons to visit New England" by the Yankee Magazine.
Make sure to make reservations far in advance. The 40 seats of Terramia fill up faster than its patrons' stomachs. Unfortunately, even with a reservation, there is often still a wait. And due to the restaurant's compactness, customers are forced to sit outside on cold wooden benches until their names are called. With Boston's unpredictable weather, this hardly sounds appealing; but stick it out: the food is well worth the wait.
When welcomed in from the cold, customers enter through mahogany doors and flowing beige curtains and are instantaneously hit with a zesty aroma. The intimate restaurant is dimly lit, and the muffled sounds of content diners bounce off the brick walls adorned with oil paintings of European landscapes.
Despite its small size, the restaurant is not cramped, and Terramia's tables are spaced comfortably apart. This provides just the right amount of privacy for individual parties.
Once seated, the waiter serves bottled water and hearty Italian bread. The thick slices of bread perfectly soak up an interesting mixture of white bean, red pepper, and olive oil spread. It's important not to fill up on bread though -- the best is yet to come. With so many choices, it may be wise to pay attention to the waiter's description of nightly specials as well as his own personal recommendations.
For appetizers, the specialty of the house is the Aragosta (market price). Terramia Chef Christopher Busell prepares Maine lobster fritters in a balsamic honey glaze topped with crispy vegetables. Reminiscent of Japanese tempura, the fritters arrive atop a sweet dark brown sauce. Accompanying are colorful carrots and zucchini strips that crunch in your mouth.
The salads are also excellent. The Insalata Mista ($7) serves as a more traditional mix of field greens and fresh parmesan cheese topped with white balsamic vinaigrette. For a real treat, however, try the Pera con Gorgonzola ($9). Arugula is topped with grilled crimson red pears, crispy onions and rich gorgonzola cheese then drizzled with Balsamic vinegar.
For the main course, the Risotto ($22) is an excellent choice. The creamy rice dish is combined with rock shrimp, asparagus, tarragon and sliced tomatoes to create a white and green fusion that invites itself to be scooped into your mouth. Although slightly peppery, and so rich it's hard to finish, the risotto is a creamy masterpiece.
For fish lovers, the catch of the day is fresh and tasty. The black cod is served over a bed of spinach and fresh Cape Cod clams. Topped with a basil and white wine sauce, the fish is so tender that it practically dissolves in your mouth. The Pollo ($24) is also an outstanding choice. The chicken is roasted with chicory and warm pancetta and lies in the middle of a bed of greens, tomatoes and seasoned potatoes. Unlike most of the courses, however, the chicken is a rather small dish. A side or extra appetizer may be a wise accompaniment.
The restaurant does not serve dessert or coffee, but Terramia's location is ideal -- if you've got any room leftover, there's no reason not to take a stroll through the North End and head over to Mike's Pastry for a night time cannoli.
