There's eating dinner at Dewick, and then there's dining in a castle. It's a difficult decision, especially during the onslaught of the mid-winter, I-can't-believe-they're-serving-that-pulpy-disfigured-meat-again blues. Smith & Wollensky, one of Boston's newest servers of haute cuisine, would love to sooth your upset stomach.
Situated near the Arlington T-Stop in a historic armory built back in 1891, Boston marks Smith & Wollensky's 11th steakhouse since the luxury chain first opened its doors in New York City in 1977. The Castle, as S & W call it, oozes a class and elegance that could even give the most seasoned diner pause. But it's not all corporate suits making serious deals across bottles of expensive champagne (we recommend the Piper Sonoma); included in the d?©cor are vintage photographs of soldiers in drag, an odd reminder of the restaurant's setting.
But really, what's history when there's tender, juicy steak to be had?
Their menu is nearly as sprawling as their multi-level dining arrangements. (There's even a raised love nest that S & W claims to be the "most romantic table in Boston"). Our evening of decadence began with the water selection. Instead of the usual, tap/bottled water decision, three aquatic options dangled before us. A caveat for the first timer: this is no place for indecision or ignorance. When asked what wine we wanted to compliment our meal, we thought we'd play it safe by asking our waitress to recommend a sparkling wine. She then had the gall to ask us what we ignoramuses looked for in wine. Thank God for the movie "Sideways." "Fruity" it was.
For appetizers, we selected the tomato & bufala mozzarella ($10) as well as the crab cakes ($14). Mistakenly, we assumed the former dish would be a salad of sorts, as opposed to a giant slice of cheese balanced on top a tomato. However, despite the petite size, the vinaigrette-infused dish was a nice surprise.
The crab cakes, meanwhile, were orgasmic. With a coleslaw-like texture, the crab cakes distinguished themselves from the rest of the menu. For while everything on the menu was good, many dishes didn't seem at all unique. The crab cakes, however, had serious claws.
Of course, no trip to Smith & Wollensky is complete without their famous dry-aged steak (in-house for up to 28 days!). Among the rib/meat options, including filet mignon ($33) and lamb chops ($34), we decided to cut into the sirloin ($34). And, while it wasn't the best steak to ever meet our stomachs' slaughterhouses, it certainly ranks in the top tier.
Perhaps to avenge our devouring of the crab cakes, we were then accosted by what is actually called an angry lobster ($47). A special of the house, the angry lobster consists of the fine Maine seafood, still in the shell, piled on top of a heaping bed of mashed potatoes. In theory a ravishing dish, its odd spices unfortunately left a "peeved" taste on the palette.
Fortunately there were a plethora of side dishes to help drown out the upset crustacean. Even though sides were officially designated for two, we were feeling adventurous and decided to try both the lobster fried rice ($10) and the truffled macaroni & cheese ($10). The lobster fried rice served as testament to the wondrous possibilities of fusing native New England seafood with an Asian staple. Bravo! The macaroni, meanwhile, was rich and creamy, and a welcome departure from Easy Mac.
As our stomachs expanded, we realized that our majestic evening in S & W's cozy confines would soon be drawing to a close. We tried to take in the seven original fireplaces and 150 original light fixtures as best we could, but in the end, that just led to us ordering dessert.
Once again we bit off more than we could chew, literally. Ordering both the trio of cr??me br?»l?©e ($8) and the chocolate cake ($10) was foolish. The cr??me br?»l?©e, which consisted of three small varieties - plain, chocolate and spice - was beyond outstanding. But it was the cake that proceeded to be our downfall.
A mousse cake with layers, the cake was as rich as our fellow diners. Trying to conquer both desserts proved embarrassing as we encountered enough chocolate cake to feed an army. Instead, it fed our housemates for days.
While the S & W prices may be extravagant, they are backed up by attentive service and an extraordinary selection. None of the dishes stood out as the best we'd ever had, but the overall dining experience was unbeatable. It's not an every day type of eating experience, but should you win the lottery, (or should your parents be in town), you might want to think about storming this castle.
