I lived in Tunisia on a Fulbright Student Scholarship from September 2005 to July 2006, during which I independently researched Roman mosaics. I arrived in late September with a broad interest in the function and iconography of Roman mosaics from the first to fifth centuries A.D.
After settling in and beginning my research at the library of the Bardo Museum, I began to narrow my focus. By late December, I had chosen to research triclinium mosaics-mosaics found in the dining rooms of Roman houses in North Africa between the second and fourth centuries A.D.
I went daily to the library at the Bardo Museum in Tunis, and I also did research at the Institut National du Patrimoine (INP) in the medina of Tunis. The Bardo Museum boasts the world's largest collection of Roman mosaics, and both libraries have the resources for my research. Sitting in the libraries of Tunis, however, was not the sole purpose of my Fulbright Scholarship.
Before delving fully into my research, I had to find an apartment and settle in. Through a long connection of people, I had the phone number of Senda, a Tunisian girl who was working on her master's degree in architecture, in Tunis. After three days in a hotel room, I finally met up with Senda, who went on to introduce me to her architecture student friend Zina and Zina's relative, Rihab.
Zina and Rihab both needed an apartment for nine months, and, at the end of the week, we were moving into a three-bedroom apartment on the second floor of a villa in La Marsa.
I signed up for Tunisian Arabic classes, and I was affiliated with the Centre d'Etudes Maghreb ? Tunis (CEMAT). Ramadan started two weeks into my arrival, and it was my first encounter with the month-long religious event, during which I discovered the traditions of Ramadan with my Tunisian friends. I was adjusting culturally and also settling in, which, according to the Fulbright committee and previous Fulbrighters, takes about a month.
In October, I met with Mohamed Fantar, a Punic specialist who teaches at the University in Manar, and he introduced me to the University at Manouba. At Manouba, I was given a list of art history courses. I decided to audit two classes: "Museum Experiences" with Tahar Ghalia, the director of the Bardo Museum, and "Islamic Art" with Neji Jalloul.
In "Museum Experiences," I gave a presentation on the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. I was able to meet and talk with graduate students in Tunis and learn from them, while they were excited to have an American sit in on their class.
We talked about what each one was studying, and they were more than generous with telling me stories and information about libraries, the medina and unusual places I would not have thought of visiting. One student suggested a lecture on collectors and collections during the 19th century in Tunisia at the INP, which I attended. We exchanged helpful texts, Web sites and affection without any hesitation.
Along with learning from students, I also met with various scholars in the field. Throughout my nine months in Tunisia, I had discussions with numerous scholars to help further my research and also learn about their experiences and their work. I met with Hedi Slim, a mosaic specialist, Ben Nazreg, an archaeologist, Ben Jerbania, director of the museum at El Djem, Aicha Ben Abed, chief archaeologist at the INP, and Fethi Chelbi, the director of the Carthage Museum.
We discussed my research on triclinia and their previous studies and jobs. Ancient Roman art, however, was not the only topic of conversation. We talked about modern Tunisia, popular culture in Tunisia, how the country has changed since the 1950s, their opinions of archaeology, and the road to being a scholar in Tunisia.
Each person had his or her own perspective and opinion, and I was able to hear a spectrum of viewpoints. These conversations aided me tremendously, both with my research and with my understanding of the culture. During a meeting with Hedi Slim, he encouraged me to go to Rome and visit the ?cole Fran?§ais ? Rome (EFR). After the trip, I returned to Tunisia with more leads to other resources and sites.
I also traveled to archaeology sites of ancient towns throughout Tunisia. Some visits were to generally analyze the architecture and archaeology at the site and others were specifically for the triclinia in certain houses. I would always go back and profit from the Bardo Museum and analyze more carefully another mosaic that I had neglected earlier. All of my focused time at the Bardo Museum led me to give entertaining tours of that museum to friends, friends' parents and family.
I discovered the city of Tunis, hidden corners of the medina and the new city, and its surrounding areas of Carthage, Bardo, La Goulette and La Marsa. I played volleyball every Sunday night with Tunisians, wandered into contemporary art galleries, and I met with the other Fulbrighters once a month. I lived and became close friends with Tunisians - an invaluable part of my experience. I was able to balance research, work, personal and social time, and I took the most out of my friendships with Zina, Rihab and Senda.
By April, I began to focus more on organizing my research. I wrote two papers; the first was on the Bardo Museum and its collection, history and function as a museum in Tunis. I left the research paper with Tahar Ghalia at the Bardo Museum, CEMAT and at the U.S. Embassy. I also wrote an article on the El Djem Museum for the electronic newspaper, The Mosaic, at the U.S. Embassy.
I am now back in New York City working in antiquities at an auction house and also working at a contemporary art gallery.
The Fulbright experience allowed me to be flexible with my time. I was not attached to the library or archaeological sites every day, and I was able to use my time freely for other interests. I was able to obtain a comprehensive knowledge of Tunisian culture and art through my experience with my roommates and friends, with whom I still keep in touch via e-mail. After completing the Fulbright program, I am certain that I want to continue my interest in art history by pursuing a graduate degree and future career in this field.
The first step to applying for this scholarship is check out the Fulbright Web site at www.iie.org. Also, visit the scholarships programs office at Dowling Hall; Kate Nash is the coordinator for scholarships and enrichment programs, and you should meet with her if you are interested in applying.
Pauline Eveillard (LA '05) majored in art history.
