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Kate Peck | The Traveling Lush

In a previous column-life, your Lush expressed a great distaste for giant group dinners. They annoy the servers, someone's meal inevitably comes later than the rest, and you can't hear 80 percent of the conversation at the table.

So when I headed to a night out at John Harvard's Brew House with a party of eight, I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best. My party included several Tufts alumni from the Class of 2005, so I was eager to play catch-up - "What do you mean the Lush is back in the Daily? The Lush was gone?" - and get some advice on life after college - "Which is more effective when bribing a potential employer: muffins or money?"

Unfortunately, the decibel level, even at our table in a room in the back of the restaurant, was indeed a tad too high for my idea of a casual dinner. That being said, the subterranean facilities are pretty awesome even if they cause all the diners to shout at one another.

We were seated next to a fireplace - which was laid for a fire but was unlit - and a number of ceiling fans were inexplicably on, so I shivered my way through dinner. But at least the patrons can worship the golden brew tanks on display after sharing in pitchers of one of the house beers on tap.

And the Lush can assure you, at least one of these beers was heavenly. I fully intended to sample a wide range of JHBH's offerings, but once that first pitcher was poured, it was a lost cause. I'm convinced I found the Holy Grail of college nightlife: the Tastiest Beer Ever. I don't think it was just because I was so hungry and thirsty I would have chewed on my coaster and deemed it gourmet; everybody seemed to love it. Now, note that I don't say, "Best Beer Ever" because I'm an optimist. I'm only 21, and I hope that my questing for brewed beverages continues to get a whole lot more interesting.

But back to that beer. I believe the bartender called it a Helles, which the restaurant's corporate Web site (yes, it's a chain) defines as a German golden lager. It was light but almost buttery in taste, and had someone provided me with a keg I would have gladly wheeled it all the way home on the T. We had a pitcher of the Helles and another beer for the table, and when it came time for round two, the Helles was in high demand. One diner really wanted a dark beer and decided to order a pitcher of something a little heavier, but found himself stuck with three pints that no one else wanted to share in favor of the Helles.

As for the food, my calamari appetizer and lentil and hummus salad were both good, but not amazing. Everything was well priced, though, and of the four guys who ordered burgers, all cleared their plates. My one complaint would be about the waitress, who appeared to be sleepwalking through her Saturday night and had the maddening habit of asking how we were doing but turning away before anyone could answer. At least she managed to refill our pitchers with no problem.

As our crew wandered off toward Redline, I had to admit the group dinner had been a success. I don't think I'd go back for the food, but will I stop by the bar again? Helles yeah.

Kate Peck is a senior majoring in English. She can be reached at Katherine.Peck@tufts.edu.