A journey back to ancient China now requires a trip no farther than a stone's throw away to Salem, where two recent exhibits allow visitors to step back in time to the days of the Qing dynasty.
The Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) is the oldest continuously operating museum in the nation. Since it was founded in 1799, it has been renowned for its art collection, but in recent years, it has gained recognition for its permanent exhibitions of Asian art.
Recent additions have brought even more accolades to the PEM. Along with its nationally recognized Yin Yu Tang House, a reconstructed Chinese dwelling that was recently opened to the public, visitors to the museum can take a unique peek at ancient Buddhist artwork in "Carved by Nature," a new temporary exhibit that explores Chinese wood carvings and paintings.
When first approached, the museum seems out of place in the narrow Salem streets. The Chinese house within its grounds appears as a moment preserved in time.
The Yin Yu Tang house was originally located in the southern Anhui province of China, in a small village called Huang Cun. It dates back to the days of the early Qing dynasty and was inhabited by members of the Huang family until their last descendants abandoned it in 1982.
A representative of PEM discovered the building in 1996. Soon afterwards, plans were made to deconstruct it and transport it thousands of miles to Boston, where it would be reassembled within the grounds of the museum.
The building, which wasn't finally reconstructed until 2003, is fascinating not just because of its beautiful architecture and intricate decoration, but because of what it communicates about ancient Chinese culture. Much of the house architecture reflects Chinese beliefs and superstitions. Even before construction on it began, the architects took care to make sure that its design would bring peace and prosperity to those who lived inside it.
The dwelling was constructed according to the principles of feng shui, a Chinese system of orientation that is supposed to bring a building into a harmonious relationship with its environment. The direction that the house faces, the way it interacts with the landscape, and even the decoration on its pillars all work together in order to create a sense of balance with the five elements of air, water, wood, fire, and earth.
Coins were buried inside stone columns in order to bring prosperity to the household and a pair of chopsticks was hidden against the ridgepole tile in order to ensure fecundity for future generations. A "spirit wall," which intended to make it harder for evil spirits to enter the dwelling, was built directly behind the front door in order to ensure that anyone entering the house had to step to the side.
The house itself is an architectural wonder. Sloping roofs ensure that water pours into the courtyard during rainstorms and the entire building is oriented around two rectangular fish ponds that were used to store fresh fish in preparation for banquets.
Both inside and out, the preserved decoration is exquisite. Paintings of colorful birds and flowers adorn the doorways, and carved phoenixes and ducks hang over the main entrance.
The four courtyard pillars are decorated along their bases with beautifully carved flowers, each one intended to represent a different season. Lattice windows, their decoration carefully arranged to mirror longevity symbols or to spell out Chinese words like "ping" ("peace") frame the courtyard itself, all the while covered with delicate dragons and interwoven floral designs.
"Carved by Nature: Untamed Traditions in Chinese Decorative Art" is a special exhibition scheduled to remain at the PEM through June 2005. It includes over 40 pieces of Chinese artwork, most of which were originally carved from the gnarled wood of trees.
The objects on display in the exhibit come from all walks of life; some date as far back as the Ming Dynasty of the 14th century. Decorative pieces, sculptures, and even bits of furniture all exemplify the often odd he relationship in Chinese culture between their affinity for nature as well as their stress on the idea of opulence.
Etched into delicately carved chairs sit Buddhist monks and holy men, peacefully discussing poetry and philosophy. Young women daydream under drooping willow trees, as they're rowed down a peaceful stream on the back of a bamboo river boat.
Both the Yin Yu Tang house and the "Carved by Nature" exhibit convey a sense of what it must have been like to live in ancient China. The peaceful, harmonious nature of the artwork and architecture speak of a time when deadlines were nonexistent, and when contemplation on the nature of a gnarled tree was considered equal to a great work of art.
The Peabody Essex Museum is located in the heart of Salem, Mass. There is a $9 admission charge for students to the PEM and a $4 charge for the Yin Yu Tang house. Visit the PEM homepage for more directions and information at http://www.pem.org.
