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The Tufts Daily
Where you read it first | Monday, April 29, 2024

Restaurant Review | Dirty Water Dough Co. a proven hit

Dirty Water Dough Company — a new, innovative pizza joint — has opened its doors at 222 Newbury Street. At its grand opening on Saturday, the restaurant debuted a menu of unexpected, locally inspired pies, handing out free slices to Bostonians and tourists alike. Dirty Water Dough Co. also offers a small selection of Italian deli fare — think meaty sandwiches and fresh, mozzarella-laden salads.

The news of the opening has attracted a great deal of attention because the intimate venue has previously been home to two other pizza companies within the last few years. The Upper Crust was a Newbury institution before Proper Slice replaced it in March of 2013, a hearty eatery that claimed a “proper” piece of pizza should be no less than a quarter of the pie.

The third pizzeria to take over, Dirty Water Dough Co. is named for the specialty beer (dirty water), made in-house, that is baked into the dough of the restaurant’s thin-crust pizza. The result is a buttery, light base that is neither too chewy nor overly dry.

Though Dirty Water Dough Co. pizzas are cut into the traditional eight slices (sorry Proper Slice fans), the portions are still incredibly generous. And customers can be assured that the quality will be top-notch. Fresh ingredients like their secret, house-made mozzarella blend and plump, juicy tomatoes and peppers make for a mouthwatering snack.

Though Dirty Water Dough Co. seems to emphasize quality — treating superior ingredients as a basic requirement — the restaurant also seeks to distinguish itself with creativity. Topping choices are where Dirty Water Dough Co. shines.

Indeed, the menu features some surprising and amusing concoctions, such as the “Fenway Frank” pizza — topped with hot dogs, sauerkraut, onions and mustard — and the “Pickled Roni,” which combines traditional pepperoni and Grillos hot pickles.

Other outstanding choices include the “Mac Cheesy,” inspired by the childhood comfort food, complete with noodles, Ritz cracker crumbles and Cheez-Its.

If you find this description intimidating, don’t worry. The mixture of cheddar and mozzarella are the primary flavors of the “Mac Cheesy,” making it safe for conservative pizza lovers looking to try a twist on an old favorite.

The one potential downfall of the pizza, however, is its greasiness. Selections such as “The Hulk,” which includes Dirty Water Dough Co.’s delicious and decadent pesto, are particularly prone to heart-stopping amounts of oil.

Take out your napkin if you must, and blot (or savor) any extra flavor that comes your way.

Welcoming and relaxed, the atmosphere of the eatery is enticing — just like its pizza. The walls display silly mock portraits, and a painted fireplace across from the entrance is decorated with hugely unrealistic orange and red flames.

Alternative music also adds to the comfortable ambiance, making the space even more attractive to older teens and young adults.

Though there are only a few places to sit, a nice selection of high tables provide patrons with a place to stand and chat while waiting for an order or enjoying a slice.

This substitute to traditional seating works well in the small space, which is easily too cramped for a sit-down setup and tailored for the causal Newbury Street shopper, popping in for an easy meal.

Dirty Water Dough Co. is open for in-restaurant dining and takeout from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, with business hours extending to 10:30 p.m. on Thursdays and 11 p.m. on weekends.

Whether you’re in the neighborhood or not, it is well worth the trip.