Gaslight Brasserie puts subtle twists on French fare
January 18Visiting a French restaurant is a lot like seeing a venerable band in concert. No matter how good their newest album may be, concertgoers will demand the greatest hits. Such a problem leaves the musician in a creative rut. His past success prevents him from further innovation. Such is the case with French cuisine. Dishes like duck confit, beef bourguignon and escargot are the culinary equivalent to Ben Folds' album "Rockin' the Suburbs" (2001).

