For the uninitiated, a trip to an authentic Chinese restaurant is an exercise in both adventure and educated guessing. Enumerated dishes lack descriptions and crowd the menu. If that wasn't hard enough, many menus are printed in Hanzi, with only an ambiguous translation.
Indeed, Eastern cuisine is quite different than its Western counterpart. Intimidated by the plethora of obscure options, diners accustomed to the gastronomic mores of Europe and the United States oftentimes retreat to the familiar: General Tso's chicken, crab rangoons and egg rolls.
For Tufts students looking to venture beyond these Americanized dishes, there is Mary Chung Restaurant in Central Square, located just a block or two past the Middle East on Massachusetts Avenue. Mary Chung — the founder, current proprietress and a constant presence — began serving authentic Chinese food in 1981. Since then, little has changed.
Aside from a large mirrored wall, the dimly lit interior lacks any decoration. During the daytime, the large window in front provides most of the lighting. Specials, written in thick Sharpie ink on pieces of paper, are taped to the front desk. This utilitarian design reflects the no−frills style of the modestly priced food. It should be noted that this is a cash−only establishment, so be sure to stop at an ATM before heading over.
While the menu features a plethora of choices, the warm staff will cheerfully guide you through the options. There are some common, recognizable dishes like the scallion pancakes, which were satisfyingly crisp and fresh, and fried eggplant, a greasy disappointment. But at Mary Chung's the road less traveled is far more exciting, with options including pigs feet, chive flower buds and preserved egg in pork congee — the traditional Chinese equivalent to porridge.
But be warned, this Szechuan cuisine can get spicy. For those of you with steel−clad tongues, be sure to try the suan la chow show, which consists of six delicate, pork−filled dumplings served on a bed of bean sprouts and a spicy soup that seeps to the bottom. Make sure to use the spoon to ladle the liquid on top — its initial sweetness lulls the front of your palate to sleep before kicking the back of your throat with some chili−based heat and soy sauce acidity.
The dun dun noodles are considered a house specialty, but they failed to live up to their stratospheric reputation. The delicious peanut−based dun dun sauce wasn't the problem; rather, it was the noodles themselves. Starchy and lukewarm, they were an unworthy vessel for such a delightful sauce. Other noodle dishes, such as the pan−fried or the two−side crispy noodles, hopefully get this basic ingredient's texture right.
The pan−fried Peking dumplings were plump with pork and were nicely crisped on the outside. As delicious as they were, they didn't hold a candle to what was certainly the highlight of our meal: the xiao long bao, known colloquially as small steamer buns. These delicate buns came with a vinegary ginger sauce that paired well with the hot soupy interior that gushed with each bite.
For vegetarians, there are plenty of options, including bean curd and a particularly delicious pan−fried tofu, called mapo tofu. For a sweet end to a savory meal, try the sesame balls. These glutinous rice balls are stuffed with black sesame paste and served in boiling water.
Mary Chung is open for Dim Sum on Saturdays and Sundays, making it the perfect hangover cure for intrepid Jumbos. Lunch and dinner specials can be had for less than ten dollars, making this one of the best cheap eats in Cambridge. Mary Chung Restaurant is a fast and easy alternative to a trip into Chinatown and is infinitely better than any of the Chinese restaurants in the Davis Square area that haven't yet burned down. May you rest in peace, KeeKar Lau.
