For all the pride Bostonians take in the North End, the culinary offerings of most kitschy fixtures in this area leave a lot to be desired. Every place seems to have its drawbacks — too loud, too proud, too expensive. In fact, it seems that the only universally respected nosh is the cannoli at Mike's Pastry.
How ironic, then, that one of the city's most authentic Italian restaurants is in the gastronomic boonies of Boston. But thanks to its cozy interior and fluid menu, which allows for seasonal changes, this Fenway restaurant serves Tuscan dinners that would make most North End eateries green with envy.
Nestled in a residential area by the underappreciated Back Bay Fens, TrattoriaToscana is as unassuming inside as it is on the outside. Its large bay window helps open up the modest dining room that in total seats about 30 guests. But the small space is inviting, and characteristically squat bottles of Chianti decorate the warmly lit walls.
In spite of the restaurant's canonization of Chianti, the house wine manages to live up to expectations. Chianti is the prototypical Italian red, and this one was supple enough to allow for a wide range of food pairings. Smoothly tannic, it was a great deal and could be purchased by the glass or carafe for $7 or $28 dollars, respectively.
The antipasto platter demonstrates the restaurant's attention to aesthetics. Artfully plated on a large wooden block, paper−thin slices of cured meat imported from Florence and wedges of cheese surround a white ceramic bowl of black and green olives.
As mentioned, the menu changes according to the seasons. Current dishes feature hearty ingredients such as squash, house−made sausage and sage. For instance, the appetizer stew — with its white beans, root vegetables and earthy seasonings — helped warm us up after the cold walk from the Green Line.
Of the pastas, the most enjoyable was the gnocchi. A potato−based dumpling, gnocchi dough is often undercooked or overworked, resulting in a sticky, gummy texture. These frequent errors detract from the nuanced qualities that good gnocchi can possess. At TrattoriaToscana, the satisfyingly tender gnocchi comes with walnuts and a creamy Gorgonzola sauce. The cheesy base had the characteristic tang of bleu cheese, but it was subtle enough to balance the delicate flavor of the gnocchi.
The entrees at Trattoria Toscana are devoid of culinary cliches like chicken or eggplant parmesan. Much like the restaurant itself, they highlight unexplored or else underappreciated aspects of Italian cuisine. The slow−cooked cow tripe — the first or second chamber of the stomach — literally melts in your mouth, and the calf's liver is served in a deep and darkly sweet Marsala sauce. Don't let the ingredients scare you; find your inner Andrew Zimmern and trade in the meatballs for something a little more exciting.
Tuscany, located along the Ligurian Sea, is known for its seafood as well, and Trattoria Toscana manages to pair that maritime tradition with Boston's own seafood culture. During my visit, grilled rainbow trout and sea bass were both on the menu.
While the prices are reasonable — averaging around the high teens for most first and second plates — the portions are smaller than you might expect. Italian mothers and restaurants share the stereotype of Brobdingnagian, guilt−tripping portions. But this is not so at Trattoria Toscana, where no food overstays its welcome. Two diners might consider splitting a first plate of pasta before enjoying their entrees. However, the pushy servers make such economical dining uncomfortable.
While the surrounding neighborhood may not evoke the intense Italianism found in northern parts of the city, Trattoria Toscana is a small yet satisfying place that is more than worth a try.
