Ken Oringer can do no wrong. The Boston−based chef owns seven restaurants in the hub, four of which made it onto Boston Magazine's 2011 50 Best Restaurants list. And Bostonians aren't the only people taking notice — Oringer's restaurants have won awards and mentions in national publications such as Gourmet Magazine, Esquire and The Wall Street Journal ever since his flagship restaurant, Clio, opened in 1997. In case you don't follow the world of food criticism, additionally in 2008, Oringer tested his talents and came out the victor on Food Network's "Iron Chef" — with coffee as the secret ingredient — against celebrity chef Cat Cora.
Not only has Oringer seemingly mastered the Boston restaurant scene, but he also seems to have mastered nearly every genre of food. Described as a contemporary Euro−Asian chef, Oringer's broad talents are represented by the unique dishes served in his seven restaurants. For example, Clio serves up French−inspired cuisine, Toro has the best Barcelona−style tapas in town, Uni offers an adventurous sashimi and sushi menu and KO Prime is the perfect spot for dedicated carnivores and steak−lovers.
It comes as no surprise, then, that Oringer's most recent endeavor — a partnership with the executive chef of Toro, Jamie Bissonnette — has been a wild success. Coppa, an Italian enoteca that opened in 2009, is known for its Italian wines, inventive menu, bold ingredients and delectable salumi choices. After Coppa received numerous accolades from The Boston Globe, Esquire and Boston Magazine, it became clear to me that an adventure down to Shawmut Avenue in Boston's South End was long overdue.
While Coppa has been known to sport an hour−long wait for a coveted table in the small, simple dining area, arriving for a 5:30 p.m. dinner or placing a reservation in advance allows a diner to skip the crowds and the hassle. I went with the first option and arrived at the restaurant around opening. Considering Oringer's fame, I was pleasantly surprised by the calm and casual atmosphere of Coppa. The decor was modest and simple, and the waiters wore comfortable, casual clothing.
I took a seat at the bar and eyed the wine list while I waited for my party to arrive. Coppa offers a wide variety of bottles but only a limited, daily−changing assortment of wines by the glass. The day's offerings were written on a chalkboard above the bar but, despite the limited choices, I was still unable to make an immediate decision. The bartender, demonstrating a kind of ease that was characteristic of the staff for the remainder of the night, asked me questions about my taste preferences and poured me samples of a few of the wines until I came across one I felt like ordering.
Unable to wait until my party arrived, I ordered a "stuzzichini," or small bar snack, to accompany my glass of Barbera wine. I went with the bruschetta di zucca, which featured cold and refreshing spaghetti squash, goat's milk feta and a hint of cayenne on top of a crunchy piece of bread. The snack was the perfect dish to whet my appetite and leave me wanting more.
Once seated with the rest of my party, we continued with a few more stuzzichinis and antipastis, tasting the lardo — crostini with a whipped animal−fat−based cream and drizzled chestnut honey; the zesty and sweet mele e burrata — heirloom apples with charred lemon, nuts and burrata cheese; and a salumi sampler — featuring prosciutto de parma, coppa, pig's ear terrine, mortadella and testa.
To give you an example of Oringer's adventurous nature with meats, the previously mentioned testa is shredded pig's head with a strong pork flavor, and the featured special of the night was a muskier yet light−tasting calf's brain ravioli with meaty chicken, mushrooms and parmesan cheese.
One of the best dishes of the night, however, was a seafood pasta featuring house−made squid ink linguini with lobster, Castelvetrano olives, black garlic and tomato. The result was light, delicate and salty, with a delicious seafood flavor. My dish, the spaghetti alla carbonara with smoked pancetta, sea urchin and farm egg, was perhaps the heartiest entree of the night, featuring a creamy, cheesy sauce and peppery aftertaste.
Although maybe not the most impressive part of Coppa, a serious commendation must be made for Oringer's and Bissonnette's ability to create authentic Italian dishes in manageable portions meant for tasting — not gorging — and cuisine with light flavors that don't leave diners overwhelmingly full and heavy. Even the creamy spaghetti alla carbonara could be considered light compared to other Italian restaurants.
While it may seem unusual to find the best Italian food in the South End rather than the North End, sacrificing a trip to Mike's Pastries is well worth the benefits of a meal at Coppa. Oringer has outdone himself in this comfortable, simple and creative setting where anyone from a college student to a food critic feels right at home. With its unpretentious and authentic atmosphere, Coppa is a must−visit for anyone interested in a unique and pleasurable dining experience — and it's the perfect introduction to the impeccable style of one of the best chefs in Boston.
