On Feb. 5, Target added yet another luxury label designer to its ever−increasing list of collaborations. Jason Wu, the fashion designer who dreamt up Michelle Obama's ethereal inauguration gown, channeled his ladylike silhouettes for a 16−look collection. The bargain−hunting masses, whom I enthusiastically endorse, will flock to Target for his frocks. But I am going to be sitting this one out. Read on, and I'll explain the pros and cons of these collabs.
The first store that I can remember executing this business model (successfully) is Target. It was Fashion Week 2007, and I was invited to the launch party for the Proenza Schouler for Target in SoHo. My 15−year−old self blushed at the bustiere−styled dresses and silk tops (a signature style for the brand) but picked out a $49 silk cocktail dress and twill skinny pants. Target's marketing strategy for these limited edition collaborations, not unlike Topshop's and J.Crew's, is to lure in the fashion set with aptly timed launches and parties around New York Fashion Week. They then employ the media's "Mad Men" to reach the rest of the country via print, TV and billboard ads.
But what is the cost for the consumer? The hype surrounding some of the launches borders on madness. Missoni for Target crashed the company's website back in September, and in November I witnessed people camping out in line for 24 hours on Fifth Avenue for Versace for H&M. Seriously? Yes. This seems hysterical, but people buy into it. Because the pieces are limited edition, businesswomen (and men) scoop up as much of the line as they are allowed to buy. They then jack up eBay prices on the poor schlub who didn't want to wake up at 3 a.m. to wait in line. As an avid shopper who loves the hunt for the perfect piece of clothing, this seems unethical to me. Yes, it's lucrative, but it takes the fun out of shopping, and it leaves a gap between the people who are buying and the company that is selling.
A friend mentioned to me that she thinks these collaborations are debranding, which is a reasonable argument. When fashion darling Prabal Gurung collaborated with J.Crew, he was not using the same meticulously sourced fabrics that he uses in his eponymous brand, just as Missoni for Target's clothes are not hand−knit like the rest of his signature pieces. A devoted Missoni client was probably madder than a hornet's nest to see metallic knit cardigans selling for $40 rather than the typical $600.
Flash−sale shopping also cannot be overlooked. These sales, which feature quick sales of designer clothing at bargain prices, have taken off as a way for designers to promote themselves and make a quick profit. A Gilt Groupe employee once told me that their largest market is in the Midwest. I was shocked as I wondered, "Who in Kansas would want to wear Marni?" Apparently, plenty of women do. Unlike big cities or suburbs with Century 21s aplenty, these women have a hard time getting their hands on affordable or discounted designer duds. The Internet allows Little Miss Chic in Kansas City to shop the Mary Katrantzou for Topshop collection or to pick up Rodarte for Target.
As it turns out, I don't particularly like the prim, boring looks from the Jason Wu for Target collection. Instead of seeking a thrill from purchasing luxury design at a fraction of the cost, I'll abstain. I, too, get overwhelmed by the hype, hence the palm−print frond leggings from Versace for H&M that I occasionally flaunt in Gantcher. But maybe sometimes it's better to stop frantically shopping every single limited edition, cheapo collaboration and just save up for the real deal.
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Elizabeth Landers is a junior majoring in political science. She can be reached at Elizabeth.Landers@tufts.edu.
