Little Donkey suffers from confusing menu, steep prices

Although Little Donkey just opened its doors over the summer, the Cambridge gem has had no problems integrating itself into the neighborhood. Making reservations, which can be done online through Open Table, is particularly tough, despite the fact that the kitchen is open for late hours. Part of Little Donkey’s charm is its location; Central Square is arguably the most vibrant part of Cambridge, thanks to nightclubs and concert venues such as The Middle Eastern and Middlesex Lounge. The biggest accomplishment of the restaurant, however, is its vibrancy; unlike other Cambridge spots that die down early, Little Donkey is open until 2 a.m. from Thursday to Saturday, blurring the line between a fine-dining restaurant and neighborhood bar. While Little Donkey’s concept is a refreshing continuation of a recent trend that started with Yvonne’s and Committee, its execution is substandard. A problematic menu, high prices and poor service are evidence that the venue has yet to find its footing.

Little Donkey is the third Boston venue from chefs and restaurateurs Jamie Bissonnette and Ken Oringer. Bissonnette and Oringer, both James Beard Award winners, are reputable names on the Boston culinary scene; after Toro and Coppa, they had successfully expanded their business outside the city with Toro New York and, most recently, Toro Bangkok. The reason why the Bisonette-Oringer partnership works is because of the duo’s devotion to providing a solid dining experience with inventive dishes, fresh ingredients and acceptable prices. Such effort is unfortunately missing in Little Donkey. Little Donkey's menu might be best described as international bar food. From farro kimchi fried rice to octopus a la plancha, the dishes are from all over the world and served in small plates. The abundance of different cuisines makes the ordering process complicated: It is difficult to find two complementing dishes when pizza bagel is listed right below foie gras. A better-edited menu would save diners from awkward interactions with waiters that end with the words, “I need an extra few minutes.”

In addition to the confusing menu, the restaurant suffers due to its extremely small portion sizes. Although the restaurant recommends that diners order two to three dishes per person, atomic particle-esque sizes require a four-dish minimum. The portions would be acceptable at a white cloth fine-dining restaurant such as Menton, but it does not fit well with the casual atmosphere of Little Donkey. When each dish is between $10 to $16, a four-course dinner is not very budget-friendly either.

The restaurant’s most advertised food is mantı, a Turkish dish described as “Istanbul meat ravioli.” Mediterranean cuisine has been gaining interest on the Boston food scene for a while now, and Bissonnette and Oringer’s decision to include a Turkish dish on their menu is a pleasant surprise. Served with sour cream and red pepper butter, mantı will impress diners that are unfamiliar with Turkish cuisine.

Another problem with Little Donkey is its service. Since the working hours are long and the venue is always loud, it is difficult to blame waiters for the lack of good service. However, a restaurant that advertises itself as a “neighborhood gem” needs to be friendlier. Dismissive attitudes shatter the illusion of a casual hangout spot. The service problem once again reinstates the identity crisis Little Donkey has; it’s not clear how the Bisonette-Oringer team wants the restaurant to be viewed.

While the dining experience at Little Donkey is mediocre at best, the place is still worth checking out for its bar and overall ambiance. It’s difficult to find a restaurant that caters to 20-somethings, and in a city filled with students and young professionals, Little Donkey is aware of this absence. The place would function much better if it branded itself as a cocktail bar that happens to serve food from a simpler, more concise menu. It is still not too late for Little Donkey to make adjustments, and the popularity of the eatery, regardless of its deficiencies, suggests an outstanding demand. With a little soul searching, Little Donkey has the potential to be a great Central Square offering.